A Fulbright Odyssey: Pamela Louderback, Day 79

I had to get up rather earlier than what I've become accustomed to (6:30) for an early flight from Belfast to London for the Fulbright Forum week. It had gotten quite cold overnight and rained so as I walked out of the apartment to make my way to the Taxi queu on Botanic Avenue, I failed to notice the ice patch and ended up falling outside the apartment. Thankfully, I fell on my luggage which softened the blow considerably. This event was followed by no taxi's queing (as the usually do) requiring me to walk an extra five minutes to a call center. Despite both events, I made my flight in plenty of time and the rest of the trip was pretty uneventful

I flew into London Gatwick (cheaper than Heathrow) and took a 45 minute train ride to the London Bridge area where the Travelodge was situated. Since I arrived a bit earlier in the day, I took advantage of the extra time before nightfall would set in and walked around the area. I got to see the Southwark (pronounced Suthick) Cathedral, the London Bridge area, the Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, and the Borough Market. I was able to meet up with a fellow Fulbrighter - Lisa Burgess - Distinguished Teacher of the Year - and we set out for adventure.

Southwark Cathedral is situated on the south bank of the River Thames close to London Bridge. It's surrounded by railway lines and buildings, including the historic Borough Market. The small church yard on the south side of the Cathedral is a favourite lunch-time resting place for local office workers.

Southwark Cathedral

Urban graffitti wall with hardhat workers represented

Street underpass with bright lights on walls

Sidewalk tiles showing the way to the Tate

Menier Chocolate Factory

"America Street" on the walk to the hotel

A bit of history of the Cathedral -- (http://www.southwark.anglican.org/cathedral/tour/history1.htm)SouthwCathedral) it is situated on a very historic site. It is believed that there has been a church here for over 1000 years. Prior to that there was a Roman villa. Some of its pavement has been incorporated into the floor. In 1977 a well was discovered beneath the choir, it contained a pagan statue believed to have been put there in the fourth century.

St Swithun, Bishop of Winchester 852 - 867, is traditionally believed to have set up a college of priests on the site. The first conclusive proof of a church comes in the Domesday Book of 1086. This records that a monasterium was present during the reign of Edward the Confessor (1042 - 1066) with its own wharf for the profitable unloading of goods brought up the river. After the Norman Conquest control of the church passed to Odo, Bishop Bayeaux and then William de Warenne, Earl of Surrey. In 1106 a new church, St Mary Overie (over the river), was founded by two knights, William Pont de l'Arche and William Dauncey. This church was served by Regular Canons of St Augustine. Part of their duties was to give relief to the sick and needy. To do this they built a hospital and dedicated it to St Thomas of Canterbury. Now relocated to Lambeth St Thomas's Hospital is still caring for the sick today. Guy's Hospital, still based near the Cathedral, was founded in 1720 to care for patients who could not be accommodated in St Thomas's. Bishop William Gifford assisted with the building of St Mary Overie. His successor, Henry of Blois, left his mark by building his espiscopal palace, Winchester Palace, two minutes walk from the Cathedral. This building was occupied until 1626, meaning that St Mary Overie could rely on the patronage of the Bishop of Winchester for all that time. Remains of the Palace, including a beautiful rose window, survive to this day.

Present functions for the Cathedral include a center for teaching, and lay readers and pastoral auxiliaries receive their training here. It's also a popular venue for concerts and hosts the annual Southwark Festival (visual arts and drama production exhbitions).

Borough Market is a wholesale fruit and vegetable market where artisan bakers produce a variety of products created by hand in their own kitchens. It wasn't open at the time for business, but I was able to walk around the area and see the various layouts. Especially enjoyable was the Market Map that employs a picture of a cow similar to a butcher's rendition of parts of the cow for butchering. Areas of the Market are displayed on the cow picture with "You are Here" notations -- quite clever.

I finished the day by taking a "tea" break with Lisa at the Menier Chocolate Factory and Theatre. The Invisible Man was playing but was a sold out performance so I wasn't able to stay for the show. The Menier Chocolate Factory has been a full time producing house since 2004, and comprises a theatre, restaurant, bar and rehearsal space. Throughout its history, the Menier Chocolate Factory building has been inspired by both individuality and the pursuit of quality. Built in 1870 to house a chocolate factory, this unique space now comprises a restaurant and bar, rehearsal room and 150 seat theatre. Having maintained the original exposed wooden beams, unusual cast iron columns and an amazing brick feature interior, the Chocolate Factory is a stimulating environment to enjoy a high-quality and entertaining theatrical experience. Inside the restaurant, the bare brick and timber beams offset with mellow sounds and candlelight create the perfect atmosphere to relax for lunch, evening drinks or dining pre or post theatre.

Pictures of Menier Chocolate Factory and Theatre -- and surrounding area

Retro lamp on antique stove in Meniers

Theatre bills on walls near couch where Lisa & I sat sipping tea

Poster with history and information on Menier's

Entrance to basement area where theatre productions are performed

Outside view of building next to Menier's

Lord Nelson Bar across the street from the Travelodge Hotel where I stayed

Seating area near hotel

Union Jack, another bar across from the hotel

Urban graffitti next to the entrance to the hotel

Afterwards, Lisa and I met up with a new Fulbrighter (Kristin) who will begin her tenure at Sheffield. Kristin, her husban and two children had recently flown from Michigan. We all rounded out the day by taking the tube to Leicester Station China Town area for a Chinese Buffet dinner. Since tomorrow was going to be an early and long day -- we made our way back to the hotel by 10 p.m.