We stayed the night at Roscrea B&B after eating a tasty meal at the Ginhouse Bodmin which was just around the corner and had a lovely assortment of foods. They even have a Facebook page! Our B & B proprieter suggested we try the Bodmin Jail Restaurant -- but that was at least a 20 minute walk. According to Sarah, our proprieter, this is about experiencing the best Cornwall has to offer on a plate, everything is made fresh to order from Hangman's Chicken, to scallops and prawns. They also have gluten-free and vegetarian options. Their chalkboard specials change on a daily basis, reflecting the changing seasons in the sea and on the land. This "top of the range" restaurant is a must, selling all home cooked local produce prepared daily by our team of qualified chefs -- but maybe I'll check it out on another visit -- I'd had enough walking for one night.
Today, we awoke exceptionally early to get a good start on the day. At 7:15 we got the 555 bus from Bodmin Town to Wadebridge, arriving in Wadebridge around 8:00. We had about an hour to kill before our 9:05 bus from Wadebridge to Tintagel, so we strolled around the streets window shopping. There were quite a few book stores that I wished I could have actually gone into, but they would not be opening for another hour. We made our way back to the bus stop and I had just enough time to run across the street to the bakery and get a small loaf of french bread and some water for the trip. By 9:45 we arrived in Tintagel.
Once in Tintagel, we saw the Old Post Office (closed for the winter, but we were able to see it from outside...) and the Parish Church (St Materiana) on our way to Tintagel Castle area. Sarah, our B & B proprieter had consulted a 2009 tide water timetable that showed a low tide of 2:00 p.m. so we thought we had time before hitting Merlin's Cave for a bit of Cornish Cream Tea. It's quite an impressive hotel, the Camelot Castle -- right before you get to the Tintagel Castle area, so we passed the time lounging in their seating area with our cream tea. Touted the "Diamond Jewel of Cornwall", the birthplace of King Arthur, Tintagel. A stunning Castle Hotel - rooms with a priceless view over the Cornish coastline. Dog and pet friendly (they have a resident French bulldog Chloe who is quite friendly) with a private beach with crystal clear sea and sand. Anyone who appreciates art, natural beauty and relaxation will love it. The owner is also an artist and exhibitions of artwork are displayed throughout the hotel. With its unsurpassed scenery, natural beauty, peace and tranquility, it is for all possibly one of the most inspiring locations in the world. Many a famous person has stayed here over the years including Ava Gardner, Donald Pleasance, J B Priestley, Sir Laurence Olivier, Sir Noel Coward and Sir Winston Churchill.
We also had time to write a letter to Merlin while at the Camelot Castle. On the Round Table sat a box where visitors could place notes to Merlin. I'm looking forward to hearing back from him regarding the questions I posed. While there, we found out the tides were well off the 2009 mark and that we would barely, if at all be able to make Merlin's Cave, so off we went running the countryside like crazed fools, trying desperately to get to the cave before the tide came in. Unfortunately, we didn't make it which just means I have a reason to come back!
The North winds were extremely harsh that day and we were hard pressed to keep our footing during our onward journey up to the Tintagel Castle area. Several times, I had to hunch over like Quasi Moto for fear of being blown over the cliffs. The knots in my hair left behind from the wind were some of the worst I have ever had. But I get ahead of myself. For those of you who may not know about the Tintagel (pronounced Tin-ta'-jel) here's a bit of information:
Tintagel Castle is, according to Geoffrey of Monmouth in his History of the Kings of Britain, written 1139, the birthplace of King Arthur, son of Uther Pendragon and Queen Igraine. Although there is no evidence to either prove or disprove this story, I am a believer! Some say this is just legend. According to the archaeologists, this place was a Roman settlement and military outpost, most likely called Durocornovium.
There was some kind of monastic settlement there in the 5th or 6th century, maybe the stronghold of a Celtic king. This would seem entirely possible, as the site would have made an impressive fort and would be almost impenetrable to any enemies attempting to storm the headland.
A finding during an 1998 excavation increased the possibility of a connection with King Arthur: a slate of 20 by 30 cm with the inscription ARTOGNOV, the Latin version of the British name Arthnou. Its from the 6th century, which is most likely the time when Arthur lived. This castle fits the legend very well, because of another fact: -- Merlin's Cave below the castle. Merlin is said to have lived in a cave below the fortress of Tintagel while King Arthur grew up, to be his teacher. In one version of the legend, Arthur was found by Merlin washed ashore in a cave below the castle. Below Tintagel Castle a fault or a layer of weaker rocks crosses the Tintagel Head, the castle is built on. It also crosses several other heads to the north and south, as can be seen from the castle. The rocks were eroded by the sea and so several irregular sea caves were formed, all in one row. Two caves are easy to access from the footpath to Tintagel Castle. Both are high enough to walk through, both are going through the whole head to the other side.
While at Tintagel, we saw the lower main, upper mainland and Island courtyards; the Iron Gate, the Dark-Ages remains, the garden and Northern ruins. We went into the Tunnel area near the Well, and were almost blown off of the Southern cliffs! Making our way toward the Chapel, we also saw The Haven, the Great ditch and the Viewing platform. There's even a Gun-house and Cove -- and of course, the castle. Some other interesting facts about Tintagel Castle area include: after a period as a Roman settlement and military outpost, Tintagel became a trading settlement of Celtic kings of Cornwall during the 5th and 6th centuries. Legend has it that one of these was King Mark, whose nephew Tristan fell in love with Yseult (or Isolde). Their doomed romance is part of Tintagel's story. (Probaby my most favorite story from the Arthurian legends)
The remains of the 13th century castle are breathtaking. Steep stone steps, stout walls and rugged windswept cliff edges encircle the great hall, where Richard, Earl of Cornwall, once feasted. In 1998, excavations were undertaken under the direction of Professor Chris Morris of the University of Glasgow, on a relatively sheltered and small site on the eastern side of the island, first excavated in the 1930s. High-status imported Mediterranean pottery of the 5th and 6th centuries was found, as well as some fragments of fine glass believed to be from 6th or 7th century Málaga in Spain. Even more remarkable was that 1,500 year-old piece of slate on which remained two Latin inscriptions. The second inscription reads: 'Artognou, father of a descendant of Coll, has had (this) made.' Who exactly Artognou was continues to be the subject of lively speculation. I, for one, believe!
After visiting the Tintagel Castle area, we made our way back in to town to check out the King Arthur's Great Halls. King Arthur's Hall was the brainchild of Frederick Thomas Glasscock, a retired London businessman, who came to Tintagel early in the twentieth century and who was captivated by the legend. He had the wealth (made by selling custard mixes) to translate his dream into reality and has left us a legacy for all to enjoy. He was a partner in the famous Monk & Glass custard firm which was based in Clarkenwell, London. Bird's custard bought the company in the early part of the century. Over two hundred million people have visited the Halls since they opened in June 1933. The Hall was a venue in 1995 of the BBC's 'National Lottery Live' television programme. The producer wanted to shift the Granite Round Table but it is eight feet in diameter, is in five sections and weighs a ton, so he dropped this idea!
Glasscock's 'Fellowship Of The Knights Of the Round Table Of King Arthur' was founded in 1927 and by the early 1930s membership had reached 17,000, although some newspaper reports put it as high as 250,000. Glasscock worked hard at the Fellowship creating Chapters & Cells both in the UK and abroad, establishing branches in New South Wales, Australia, in Canada and in Boston, Massachusetts. He died of a heart attack on 26th July 1934, aged 63, and was buried at sea. The Fellowship was wound up on 21st November 1936, and the Halls were only viewed by appointment. Thankfully, the Freemasons of Tintagel purchased the building in 1952 and have looked after the building since that time. It is only since the early 1990s that the Halls have been opened on a full time commercial basis. In 1993, the Fellowship was revived on a more straightforward basis and details of its aims and objectives can be obtained from the Halls. At this time there are about three hundred members worldwide.
There's an authentic Round Table and granite thrones surrounded by 72 spectacular stained glass windows depicting various knights of the roundtable's shields as well as knightly valors (fidelity, honor, etc...). The tour begins with a laser light and music show of the legend of King Arthur, and is narrated by Robert Powell. My favorite part was most defintely the 72 Stained Glass Windows, all created by a lady called Veronica Whall. The artefacts on show and the Presentation on King Arthur's life make this one of the highlights of the visit to Tintagel.
After visiting the Great Hall, we had a quick late lunch across the street and waited for the 4:15 Tintagel to Wadebridge (#594) bus, followed by the 5:55 - Wadebridge to Bodmin Town (555 Bus). We made it an early night given the days events and I took in "Devil Wears Prada" before retiring for the night.
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